It’s a known fact that the TUDOR Black Bay collection features elements inspired by the watchmaker’s storied past. From the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” to the unprotected crown and the characteristics of its case, every watch is the result of blending classic looks with modern horology. The Black Bay Pro, unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2022, is no exception. Here is what you need to know about TUDOR’s latest urban warrior.
While the Black Bay Pro is part of the Black Bay family, it is a brand-new design with many new and unique aesthetic details, one of which is its winding crown. It has been completely redesigned for maximum grip and is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube cannot be seen. Also new are the applied hour markers on the dial – they are made from monobloc luminous ceramic, which not only improves the technical aesthetic of Black Bay Pro but also increases the luminous surface of the hour markers.
The Black Bay Pro features a dual time zone function, a technical complication that allows the wearer to tell local time while not forgetting the reference time. The reference time is indicated by an angular yellow “Snowflake” hand, which traverses around the dial every 24 hours. The local time, on the other hand, is indicated by another shorter “Snowflake” hand, and is set by a jumping hour, which can be moved either backwards or forwards. The date is coupled with the local time hand; when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, the date moves accordingly.
As with its counterparts in the Black Bay family, this new model is offered with three bracelet options: a black Jacquard fabric, hybrid rubber and leather, or riveted 316L steel with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp with rapid adjustment. The TUDOR “T-fit” clasp is a brand-new innovation, which is easy to use, requires no tools and allows the wearer to carry out an instant adjustment of the bracelet – up to 8mm on the clasp.
The Black Bay Pro is fitted with the Manufacture Calibre MT5652, designed and developed by TUDOR. A proven workhorse, it is currently employed in the Black Bay GMT models. Designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, the movement features a non-magnetic silicon balance spring and is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In fact, its performance surpasses the already strict standards set by COSC. TUDOR insists on an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -2 and +4 seconds compared to the standard of between -4 and +6 seconds set by the institute. The Calibre MT5652 is also “weekend-proof” so to speak, meaning that its 70-hour power reserve allows the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.
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