What We Like About The Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G
Tudor’s latest interpretation of the iconic model gives it a neo-retro appeal that is hugely different from its predecessor
At Watches & Wonders 2022, Tudor gave the watch cognoscenti much to cheer about as it released the highly popular Black Bay GMT model in a steel and yellow gold version. The model’s iconic design is largely retained but the new variant clearly gives off a completely different vibe from the existing full-steel version with a matte burgundy and blue bezel. The former, with its combination of steel and gold, boasts a hint of nostalgia – an apt and subtle aesthetic nod to the watchmaking heritage of Tudor – while the latter comes with a cool, calm and collected look imbued with a tinge of clinical precision as well. Here, we summarise the three things we love about the new Black Bay GMT S&G.
Since its release at Watches & Wonders in April, the Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G has been receiving rave reviews from enthusiasts the world over. PHOTOS: TUDOR
With its ability to indicate time from three time zones, frequent flyers will give the Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G the thumbs-up.
Made for travel
The versatility of the Black Bay GMT S&G makes it the perfect travel companion. Reference time is indicated by an angular “Snowflake” hand, while local time is read off another shorter “Snowflake” hand that is set by a jumping hour. The date can be read off from the window at 3 o’clock. The 24-hour graduated bidirectional rotating bezel and “24-hour” hand also mean the wearer can keep track of a third time zone. Inter-city or inter-state travel in larger countries on business trips is made much simpler – there is no need to constantly adjust the time as travellers move from the east to the west.
Made to last
Like the rest of its siblings, the Black Bay GMT S&G is not just a pretty face. Underneath its handsome aesthetics is a workhorse movement developed and produced by Tudor with the sole objective of providing accurate and precise timekeeping. This model is powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function, a movement designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision. Its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation, and non-magnetic silicon balance spring allow it to be certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In fact, its superlative performance surpasses the already-high standards set by COSC.
Take, for instance, the average variation in the daily running of a watch. The Manufacture Calibre MT5652, when completely assembled, varies between -2 and +4 seconds, while COSC allows an average variation of between -4 and +6 seconds. These stringent standards that Tudor imposes on itself only goes to underline the highest quality it wants to bring to fans of the brand.
Like with many of the more recent releases, the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is “weekend-proof”. Its power reserve of about 70 hours gives the wearer the freedom to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it – a seemingly minor but important detail to watch enthusiasts.
A look at the anodised aluminium disc of the bezel, one will notice the graduations for the 12 daylight hours in gold on the brown section and the night-time hours on the black portion.
With three strap options, there is always an occasion to wear the Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G to.
Made to charm
Retaining the essence of Black Bay models, this variant comes with a satin-brushed and polished case in 316L stainless steel and yellow gold and a bidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold and insert in black and brown anodised aluminium. To complete the nostalgic look the model portrays, it is fitted with three bracelet options: A stainless steel and yellow gold bracelet, a jacquard-woven strap or a leather strap.
The stainless steel and yellow gold bracelet is inspired by the folding riveted ones made by Tudor in the 1950s and 1960s, which had visible rivet heads on the sides. A combination of modern manufacturing methods with solid links and laser-finished rivet-style heads, the bracelet is sturdy and comfortable to wear at the same time.
The fabric strap has been one of the brand hallmarks since 2010 when it became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with the Heritage Chrono. Tudor works with veterans at Julien Faure to produce these tough yet trendy straps. For the Black Bay GMT S&G, Tudor has selected a black strap with a beige band woven by these traditional craftsmen.
For those who want something midway between functional and fashionable, then the choice of brown leather strap with light topstitching and a folding clasp will definitely sit well with them.
Tags: Tudor; Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G; Watches & Wonders 2022
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