Can the sporty Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller be a dress watch?
FEBRUARY 29, 2020
Yes, and four other reasons why the Sea‑Dweller in yellow Rolesor is a hit in and out of water
Luxurious touch to a functional watch
This is the first time Rolex has introduced 18 ct yellow gold to the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller range. By combining Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold together, the yellow Rolesor version of the ultra-resistant tool watch gains an instant touch of luxury and sophistication. Unlike its Oystersteel brethren, which features the word “Sea-Dweller” in red on the dial, this ticker echoes the colour of 18 ct yellow gold by using a yellow hue. With these minor tweaks, the sporty Sea-Dweller becomes perfect to match a spiffy suit for a black-tie or formal event.
A piece of history
Introduced in 1967, the Sea-Dweller was designed using the input of pioneers from the professional deep-sea diving industry. These were specialists, who spent extended hours underwater, so it made natural sense to seek their advice. Since it was made for professional divers in mind, the Sea-Dweller boasted a pressure-resistant case and helium escape valve developed by the watchmaker. These innovations allowed divers to conquer great depths.
Even till today, the Sea-Dweller remains a functional tool watch made for divers. Not only can it reach 1,220m (4,000ft), it is equipped with useful innovations such as the Rolex Glidelock extension system. With a special toothed mechanism integrated beneath the clasp, the bracelet’s length can be adjusted by some 20 mm in increments of approximately 2 mm—all without any watchmaker’s tool. Wearing it over a diving suit (up to 3mm thick) is now a cinch.
Supreme waterproofness
For the Sea-Dweller to be waterproof to a depth of 1,220m, credit has to be given to the way the watch is constructed. The sapphire crystal is virtually scratchproof and is fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date. The Oyster case boasts a middle portion crafted from a complete Oystersteel block, which is particularly resistant to corrosion. The Sea-Dweller’s caseback, which features fine fluting on its edges, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool—only Rolex watchmakers can access the movement. Fitted with the Triplock triple waterproofness system, the winding crown screws down tightly and securely against the case while being protected by an integral crown guard. Lastly, the helium escape valve allows excess pressure built up in the watch case during a dive to escape during decompression in a hyperbaric chamber, while preserving the waterproofness of the watch. All these contribute to making the Sea-Dweller a sophisticated piece of technology that boasts plenty of pragmatism and functionality.
Outstanding movement technology
The Sea-Dweller is equipped with calibre 3235, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. The self-winding movement features the Rolex-patented Chronergy escapement, which is made of nickel-phosphorus, rendering it insensitive to magnetic interference. It is also fitted with an optimised blue Parachrom hairspring, which is made of a special paramagnetic alloy—this makes it nearly 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring during knocks and shocks. The movement’s power reserve of 70 hours is due to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency.
Excellent legibility
Like what it was originally built for, the modern-day Sea-Dweller remains a tool par excellence for divers—its 60-minute graduated, unidirectional rotatable bezel enables divers (professional, leisure or otherwise) to precisely and safely monitor their dive and decompression times. Legibility of the watch is top-notch too. The bezel is fitted with a patented black Cerachrom insert in a virtually scratchproof ceramic, whose colour is not affected by ultraviolet rays at all. The watch’s sleek black dial comes with large Chromalight hour markers and hands, which have been filled with luminescent material. This special material emits a long-lasting blue glow to ensure excellent legibility even in the dark conditions of the abyss.
SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL CASE
Oyster, 43 mm, Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold
OYSTER ARCHITECTURE
Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown
MATERIAL
Yellow Rolesor—combination of Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold
BEZEL
Unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated, scratch-resistant Cerachrom insert in ceramic, numerals and graduations coated in gold
WINDING CROWN
Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system
CRYSTAL
Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date
WATER-RESISTANCE
Waterproof to 1,220 metres, helium escape valve
CALIBRE
3235, Manufacture Rolex
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands; instantaneous date with rapid setting; stop-seconds for precise time setting
BRACELET
Oyster, flat three-piece links
BRACELET MATERIAL
Yellow Rolesor—combination of Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold
CLASP
Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system
Tags: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, Yellow Rolesor
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