The year 2018 was a prolific one for Rolex as it rolled out not one but three Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II watches—much to the delight of the watch cognoscenti. On the top of everyone’s list was undisputedly the GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with the two-colour red and blue Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic, affectionately known as the “Pepsi” by watch enthusiasts. But quietly making a deep—if not deeper—impression on people was the pair of GMT-Master II models crafted with 18 ct Everose gold. One was fully clad in 18 ct Everose gold, while the other was made in 18 ct Everose Rolesor. Here, we look at the latter in detail.
THE AESTHETICS
The GMT-Master II is a handsome timepiece and Rolex merely goes for minor enhancements to give this version in Everose Rolesor, which harmoniously combines Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold, an alternative look as well as improved performance. What strikes you at first glance is the emblematic two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert—this time round, the watchmaker goes for brown and black, with one colour representing the daytime hours and the other for night-time. Made in a single piece, the bezel insert is virtually scratchproof, boasts corrosion-resistant properties and will keep its colours intact for a long time. Complementing the brown-black Cerachrom bezel insert, which contributes to the watch nicknamed “Root beer” by horophiles, is the classic black dial, a feature synonymous with Rolex’s Professional watches. Readability of the time and information off a black dial increases significantly and for the first time in the GMT-Master II range, the model name on the dial is inscribed in powdered rose.
With the watch crafted out of Everose Rolesor—a true Rolex signature, that has been featured on Rolex models since the early 1930s, and also one of the key pillars of the Oyster collection—it is sophisticated yet hardy and functional at the same time. After all, gold is precious and lustrous, while Oystersteel is strong and reliable—their combination gives Rolesor the best of both sets of physical properties. A highly utilitarian ticker like the GMT-Master II requires a bracelet that is easy on the wrist yet sturdy enough for the rumble and tumble of daily wear. In this case, Rolex fits the watch with the iconic Oyster bracelet, which ticks all the boxes in terms of reliability and ergonomics. It features an Oysterlock folding clasp, which prevents accidental opening and the Easylink comfort extension link, which allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm any time.
THE USEFUL
First launched in 1955, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master was designed as a navigational timekeeping tool for professionals who travel across the globe regularly. The GMT-Master II, the heir to the original, was introduced some two decades later in 1982 but built with the same intention of helping world travellers tell time easily and accurately. Besides the conventional hour, minute and seconds hands, the GMT-Master II also features an arrow-tipped hand and a bidirectional rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel. The arrow-tipped hand traverses the dial once every 24 hours, displaying the home time in a first time zone that is read off the graduations on the bezel. Using the winding crown, the wearer can then set the local time by “jumping” from hour to hour. This special mechanism allows the wearer to adjust the hour hand forward or backward independently of the minute and seconds hands.
THE ENGINE
Powering this GMT-Master II is the calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. It features a Chronergy escapement and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The movement has successfully passed all the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) requirements, acing the stringent tests for accuracy, precision and reliability—as with all Oyster Perpetual watches. In order to push the performance standards of the movement, the watchmaker has equipped the calibre 3285 with a Parachrom hairspring, thus increasing the resistance to shocks and temperature variations
When the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master was launched in 1955, it coincided with the height of intercontinental travel. Air travel was experiencing a boom with more people taking to the skies. The GMT-Master was even the official watch of Pan American World Airways, one of the most popular airlines during the 50s. To further cement its status at the “Cosmopolitan Watch”, Rolex also partnered Concorde for its final test flights of the world’s supersonic passenger airliner in the 1960s. Of course, arming the wrists of both the British and French test pilots were a pair of GMT-Master timepieces.
MODEL CASE
Oyster, 40 mm, Oystersteel and Everose gold
OYSTER ARCHITECTURE
Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown
MATERIAL
Everose Rolesor—combination of Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold
BEZEL
Bidirectional rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel; two-colour brown and black Cerachrom insert in ceramic; engraved numerals and graduations
WINDING CROWN
Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system
CRYSTAL
Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date
WATER-RESISTANCE
Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet
CALIBRE
3285, Manufacture Rolex
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands; 24-hour display; second time zone with independent rapid-setting of the hour hand; instantaneous date; stop-seconds for precise time setting
BRACELET
Oyster, flat three-piece links
BRACELET MATERIALS
Everose Rolesor—combination of Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold
CLASP
Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link